Thursday 26 January 2012

Zenith El Primero HW

Zenith is not a well-known name when it comes to watches. Well, that statement isn't completely right. Zenith is now a well-known name for watches for the average person. In horology circles, it is a well-respected name with a history starting as far back as 1865. Throughout their manufacturing history, they have received numerous awards for their movements (the gears inside the watch that make the hands turn) and are best known for the El Primero, the first automatic movement for a chronograph introduced in 1969.

The El Primero movement runs at 36,000bph (beats per hour) making it one of the most accurate movements available. Just to show you how well-engineered the El Primero movement is, a Rolex movement runs only at 28,800bph. Your average automatic watch would run at 18,000bph while some upper grade models would run at 21,000bph. The El Primero movement was such a marvel that Rolex saw it fit to use the El Primero movement in their early Daytona models. However, Rolex has now discontinued use of the El Primero movement as they have developed their own chronograph movement. The Daytona models that had El Primero movements still have a big following and mint specimens can eaily fetch well over US$12,000. 

The designation of HW in the El Primero watch I am featuring today is short for handwound. This means that I have to wind the watch manually. The power reserve of this particular watch is about 40 hours. The dial of the watch is enamel coated with lume applied to its indices and hands. There is a tachymetre scale in the outer edge of the dial and a window showing the date is located between 4 and 5.

The case is highly polished giving it a mirror-like finish. The pushers for operating the chronograph function clicks solidly and the crown is signed with their logo. As this is a handwound watch, you have to wind it to make sure that it runs. Around 40 turns of the crown would give it a full charge though I usually just turn it 25 times as I prefer to wind it more frequently. You pull the crown once to adjust the time and you pull it a second time to adjust the date.

The case back of this particular watch is made of sapphire crystal allowing viewers to marvel at the decorated movement inside. Watching the decorated movement function is fascinating. An automatic watch would have a large portion of its movement covered due to the presence of a rotor unless it has a micro rotor movement.  

There are three subdials on the watch dial. The right-most subdial features subseconds. The left-most subdial has a 60 minute register and the bottom subdial features a 12-hour register.

I love this watch. It is a watch to be loved by other horologists. I still remember when I went to a well-known watchmaking family and they were impressed that I chose to wear Zenith for meeting with them. Here is a parting shot of this watch on a different strap.



Ciao!

1 comment:

  1. Just perchased this timepiece, looking forward to it.
    Great review by the way!

    ReplyDelete