That was not a typographical error which you just saw. Part of my responsibilities with work is to sign new deals with suppliers or clients. As such, I have to do a bit of flying around which I really don't mind except whenever I go to Lae, I have to make an effort in waking up really early making me feel terribly tired the whole day.
This time around, I woke up at 0315. I had a shower and waited for the driver who came fabulously late which really annoyed me to no end. I have tardiness and I have always believed that tardiness is usually associated with utter disrespect for the other party's time. As they say, time is money and the guy just cost me some!
Lae is Papua New Guinea's northern capital. It's strategic location with a natural and large bay makes it the best place for most of the country's import business to come through. It is 45 minutes by plane from Port Moresby. As you fly, you will pass through the Owen Stanley range, a mountain range so vast that many consider it to be Papua New Guinea's spine. Sunrise with the range is always beautiful and allows you to see the overflowing rivers underneath. It is these views where you can really find yourself lost in this country's natural beauty.
I arrived at Nadzab airport, a sorry excuse for the second busiest airport in the country. The airport barely has any amenities and basic facilities such as toilets are always broken. It has got a cafeteria that is a joke and the baggage carousel... well, it's just a wooden platform that they put your luggage on.
From here, you take a ride in a Toyota Coaster. A modified one with wire screens in front of all windows including the front wind screen. Driving this vehicle is an armed guard along with another armed guard who watches the road carefully for anything unusual. The road from Nadzab to the city is full of potholes and a lot of opportunists try their luck at holding up passing vehicles. Taking this bus is a precaution that is worth it!
Now most people think that there's no place to eat in this Northern city. While it is true that the choices are few and far between, there are still a few places to eat at. Sadly, my choice for breakfast was a bad one. I went to Food Mart thinking that they would have some nice pastry or pie. While they did have a selection of cupcakes, quiche, filo pastry and pies, the one I had wasn't so appetizing. The presentation though wasn't bad though and looked inviting enough.
After meeting with a couple of clients, I decided to have lunch at Lae's best-kept secret! Chigi's coffee shop located in Brian Bell, an appliance, electronics and furniture shop! I have to say that they make beautiful burgers here! I ordered Grant's burger which had double the bacon and cheese! It is scrumptiously juicy and is the benchmark by which I measure other burgers in the country. I'm not saying it's fantastic. I'm just saying it's the best that we've got.
After my meal, I decided to go to the warehouse of another client. To get there though, we had to pass by the port area. I came across an interesting boat that ran aground last year due to massive waves that hit it and pushed it to shore. It is now a veritable rust-bucket. It has obviously been cannibalized by opportunists. I'd have to say though that looking at it makes me want to go inside. I had to stop and take a photo. The waves were crashing on the shore and I got a little wet from it.
I also passed a typical Papua New Guinean market by the roadside on my way to Malahang where my client was. These markets are practically no-go zones for expatriates due to the high number of pick-pockets that comb these places. I have been to a few before but I would never risk my pockets again just to save a few lousy cents on food that I would probably never bother cooking anyway. Papua New Guineans are so camera-friendly that it is hard to get a candid shot. As soon as they see a camera, they try to get into the frame and smile.
I capped the day with a bottle of Chinotto which I found in Food Mart. Amongst other things that I found there, I also found a wide selection of Pepperidge farms cookies and Snyder's pretzels! Chinotto is an Italian bitter orange beverage best drank cold. I am guessing it is an acquired taste.
The last flight to Port Moresby leaves Nadzab at 1900 which means I have to be there by 1800. Luckily for me, I always have the foresight of checking myself in early in the morning for my return flight so by the time I get to the airport, I just waltz into the lounge and relax. The flight was uneventful, the best kind. As it was already late and I was hungry, I decided to buy a "Fried Box" from Big Rooster, the country's most successful fast food chain. Their chicken is extremely salty! But it has a certain taste that makes people come back for it time and again. Due to its high sodium content, I only have some 5 or 6 time a year. For K19, you get 3 pieces of crispy chicken and crispy chips to go with it.
Well, that's it for today. I'm done. I'm tired. Lights out.
I have been in Lae longtime ago. coincidentally read your article - felt so familiar!! Lots of places and names .. just like happened million years ago! Thank you
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