Hiri Moale

Hiri Moale is a 3-day celebration in Port Moresby that coincides with independence day. It is celebrated by the people of Central Province and is headed by the Motu Koitabu. Each year, several activities are lined up for the people to enjoy and showcase their culture. A canoe race is held at Ela Beach where Lagatoi race around the little islands. Lakatois are dug-out canoe popular in the region and traditionally used by the coastal people for fishing and exploration. 

I was lucky enough this year to have been able to witness the races and the dances. I missed out though on seeing the large canoe arrive with the Hiri Queens and the crowning of the Hiri Queen. The Hiri Queen is the chosen female that epitomises the qualities important to the coastal people of Central province. The candidates are adorned with various tattoos and dances to the crowds wearing her traditional dress.

We start off with the canoe race at Ela Beach.

the contestants wake up early to prepare their canoes.

and away they go!

these little canoes have to navigate around the islands.

from the shore, they look like little white dots. the race will have these canoes go around thrice before a winner is declared.

the blue canoe is done up in the traditional shape of the lagatoi.

the sails of these canoes can be quite colourful.



turning a canoe around is not an easy thing to do.



ela beach is packed with people. there is a festive atmosphere about.

little kids don the flag of PNG.

young girls dressed in bilum dresses.

enterprising people sell refreshments and snacks.

The dances take place at Konedobu inside Ela Murray stadium. Here is where the height of the festivities happen. The different tribes come in full traditional dress. It is hard to tell them apart but here's a tip. Take a close look at their head dresses and grass skirts. The police band led several floats filled with dancers after which all performers filled the grounds. I have to say that I was a bit overwhelmed with all the dances taking place all at the same time. Here are some photos.

ladies waiting for their turn to perform.

seeing them perform is great!

these performers remind me of the tumbuan from East New Britain. they can kick up a storm.

the arrival of the floats signal the start of the performances.

the floats are also dressed up with performers dancing on top.

the dances are timed to the beat of the kundu drum.

the bleachers are filled with onlookers as the performers dance.

here i am posing with some of the performers.

it is the male performers who are tasked with pounding the kundu drum.

from above, you can see how many dancers there are.

all dancers perform at the same time. if you're down there, you will get overwhelmed with all the action taking place simultaneously.

The head dresses are all elaborately decorated with native materials and feathers. They really make this celebration of culture really colourful.

these head dresses are beautiful.



hands down, this is by far the largest and most elaborately decorated head dress.



flags are added to the head dress.

And here are a few faces to remember.

i love the symmetry of his head dress.

time for a short break.

this gentleman has so much character.

hello there!

the sun's too bright!

I hope my photos were able to help you enjoy this unique and wonderful celebration of culture through my eyes. Please come visit Port Moresby in September so you can enjoy this first hand. If you want to come, book yourself from September 15 to 19. There are regular flights from Air Niugini and Airlines PNG and there are plenty of places to stay at.